Nelson Lakes Tracks

Fishy Walks in the Nelson Lakes


There seem to be a lot of fishermen these days that have finally managed to get rid of the rug rats and can now concentrate on our favourite leisure activity. Now we have to consider how we can reach a compromise with the better half so that some time is allocated to fishing during our holidays. No longer can we leave the wife and kids to amuse themselves while we slope off for a day’s trout fishing. Not many wives seem that enthusiastic about pursuing the elusive trout but many are very keen to put in a few kilometres walking through the beauty that is backcountry New Zealand. Fortunately this gives the active angler a chance to keep the No.1 happy and to explore some interesting new water.

One of the best areas for this combined pursuit is around the Nelson Lakes area. The small township of St.Arnaud provides an ideal base for such day tripping. There is a wide range of accommodation from backpacker hostels right up to the very well-appointed Alpine Lodge tourist hotel. There is not a lot of choice of dining establishments so it is a good idea to throw the BBQ in the boot to offer some cheaper alternatives to the hotel dining room. From this comfortable base, there are numerous opportunities for day walks that can incorporate some interesting trout fishing. You need to concentrate on rivers that have walking tracks alongside the rivers as it is a bit much to expect your dearly-beloved to clamber over boulders, bash through the bush and wade waist-deep over greasy cannonballs. Fortunately many of the rivers in this region are equipped with well-maintained walking tracks beside the river with bridges for comfortable crossings.



My wife and I normally aim to walk in for a couple of hours; I get to fish for 2–3 hours while the boss reads her book and then we hike out.




With travelling time, this makes for a 8–9 hour day, which is enough to keep all but the most ardent holidaymaker feeling they have had a full day. Certainly it is enough for us to feel a warm glow of satisfaction as we watch the sun going down and sip a well-earned drink. During your two or three hours fishing, you may not have had time to catch your limit but you will have explored new water. If you are smart, you will have made some mental notes for when you can return for a more prolonged attack. By walking in for 2-3 hours, you will be skipping the more heavily-fished water near the start of the track, as most anglers tend to fish from the very start of the track up a river. However be warned: there are an ever-increasing number of trampers that carry a fly or spinning rod so you can still expect to encounter ‘educated’ trout.
Accordingly it pays to use only light tackle wherever possible. I only use one rod – a 5 weight, four piece pack rod. Assuming you will not be venturing forth in a storm, then wind in the protected valleys is not a major worry, giving you the advantage of the light rod that is needed for wary trout.

A day backpack with lunch and extra clothing can be left with your wife at the setting-down point, leaving you with only rod and vest. A bare- essential approach is best and I find a minimally-equipped waist fishing ‘vest’ (fanny pack) is the most comfortable. Add a good peaked cap and a pair of Polaroids and you have all you need. Footwear is normally a lightweight pair of boots although sometimes it pays to carry a light pair of felt soled wading boots if there are a lot of tricky crossings. You should carry your tramping stick, as these are a very prudent aid when crossing rivers on your own in the backcountry. The stick is telescopic and fits easily into a net scabbard or through a belt when not required. With this gear, you will be well-equipped to take on the ‘educated’ Nelson brown trout.
Some of the most educated will be found in the Travers River at the head of Lake Rotoiti.



Lake Rotoiti





This river is a typical example of the enjoyment that can be had from a combined fishing/tramping excursion.



The start of the track is best reached, for a day excursion, via a reliable water taxi service that departs from the jetty in front of the St Arnaud motor camp.




You can make a time to be picked at the other end and as long as there are other passengers to share the cost, the price is very reasonable.
As the only other option is a three hour walk, it is a popular service so you should not want for company during the fishing season. On arrival at the head of the lake, you disembark at the jetty in front of a Dept. of Conservation (D.O.C.) hut, which is handily placed, if you are considering more than a day excursion. The river follows a meandering course through wetlands very near the hut. There are a huge number of trout in this section just up from the lake but they are extremely wary due to the fishing pressure – especially over summer.

One visiting Danish angler we met reported spotting over 60 fish in a day and he managed to spook every one he fished to. However, he then confirmed the impression that he was indeed a competent angler by relating the capture of a 4 kg fish the next day – an event that had been witnessed by the boatman’s nephew. This size fish is at the upper end of what you can expect from the Travers River as the average size trout is nearer to 2 kg.

Cruising Travers River brown trout







There are a couple of very attractive pools around the bridge but these are well known to the regular trampers and most seem to unsling the rod to have a go.
It is better to head a bit further up the track, find a spot for your wife to put her feet up and set off upstream.

A stealthy approach will be essential, unless you are there early season, as all trout encountered were extremely spooky. The water is a pure and clear so small flies and fine tippets are called for.



The usual run of Pheasant Tails or small Beadheads seemed to work well in the bubbly water.

Naturally the scenery is rather distracting as you are hemmed in by beech tree forest and towered over by the unique ‘hanging valleys’ of this area.





You will be sure to see fish and whether you catch any will depend on your patience and technique.








Slightly less popular is the Sabine River at the head of the nearby Lake Rotoroa.

It is accessed by a six hour walk or a water taxi. As the numbers of visitors are not as high, it pays to wait until he has other bookings as the cost for just two people can get a bit expensive. You actually have the choice of two rivers at the head of this lake – the Sabine or the D’Urville. Both hold good fish but the Sabine has the more difficult terrain in the lower reaches with a lot of debris from the frequent floods.

On the Sabine Track







It also has an unfishable gorge 20 minutes up from the start of the track.

The D’Urville by comparison is more open; flowing over a shingle bed with consequent easier fishing access. As you will only have a limited fishing time available, this may be the one to head for unless it is the middle of summer.

In either river, the trout are easily seen but of course that means they are very wary, especially if there has been a few anglers trying their luck. Brown trout are prevalent in the D’Urville and the river is best fished early or late in the season as low summer flows can see the fish dropping back into the lake. Over the holiday period it might be more productive to fish the Sabine where there is a good population of Rainbow trout that may be a touch easier to fool, especially in the rougher, oxygenated water. In that situation a shaggy beadhead nymph or a rough water dry such as a Wulff would be a good choice.

On the way back from the lake, you might be able to persuade the boss to stop for half an hour at the Gowan River, which is the natural outlet of Lake Rotoroa. This river looks like one long rapid and you might think no trout could survive in such a torrent.




It will surprise you to discover that the Gowan has one of the highest densities of trout in all of New Zealand – and they are all brown trout to boot, around 350 of them per kilometre. Of course hooking one is the least of the your problems as you then try and figure where you can land the fish in the raging torrent. At least you will provide some entertainment for your bankside spectator.

The above rivers are a typical example of what you can find when you want to do some of the best New Zealand walks while finding a couple of hours to fish in some delightful rivers. Not only will you have had a lovely day with your partner but you might just have managed to pick up a trophy fish as well!


Ron Giles has a free information service at www.trout-fishing-new-zealand.com